My Atlanta bookclub spent this past weekend in Savannah, on the Georgia coast. We enjoyed the beach on Tybee Island, as well as wandering through Savannah's bookstores, tea shops, and art galleries. Two of us pulled ourselves out of bed early to go birding on Sunday and were rewarded with sights of roseate spoonbills, wood storks, herons, anhingas, and a family of raccoons. Here are a few highlights.
We spent most of the first day on Tybee Island, a barrier island just east of Savannah. With an air temperature over 90 °F, and a water temperature of 87 °F, it was almost too warm, but we all enjoyed the water and were very excited to see a pod of dolphins swimming just offshore. On the way home, we stopped by the Tybee Island Light Station, the third lighthouse on this site, built in 1773 (since repaired), and still actively maintained and operated by the Coast Guard.
We visited multiple bookstores and tea shops in Savannah, but the highlight was certainly E. Shaver Booksellers, a cute independent bookstore with a great selection, and four resident cats: Bartleby, Skimbleshanks, Mr. Eliot, and the elusive Morticia (who hangs out in the backrooms and was not sighted).
Skimbleshanks
Mr. Eliot
Savannah is known for the iconic southern live oaks (Quercus virginiana) and dangling Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides). Spanish moss is rather misleading, as it is not from Spain, but native to the U.S. and much of the Americas; it is also neither moss nor lichen, but a member of the bromeliad family!
On Sunday morning, I headed to Skidaway Island, specifically Priest Landing, which I'd heard of from other birders. We arrived to to a completely empty beach along the Wilmington River estuary, with only a few laughing gulls in the distance.
We started by walking along the beach, and soon realized there were crabs everywhere! I believe they were Squareback Marsh Crabs (Armases cinereum)
After a few minutes, we saw a flock of wood storks (Mycteria americana) fly in...
And a few minutes later, my first roseate spoonbill (Platalea ajaja).
They all flew past us, across the beach and into the trees, and I couldn't tell if they landed somewhere or just kept flying. So I was very excited when we found them all roosting (assuming it was the same individuals... it might not have been). First, we came upon a whole tree of wood storks.
I counted 20 individuals, but there may have been more. Although they look small in comparison to the pine tree, wood storks are very large birds, approximately a meter tall with a wingspan of 140-180 cm (55-71 in).
I noticed that their feet are pink! Wood storks were formerly listed as endangered in the U.S., but populations have been recovering and they have been delisted; they are also more plentiful in South America.
I was watching the wood storks when I heard some movement to my right. When I looked over, I saw a family of three raccoons!
As we walked down the trail parallel to the beach, we were rewarded with views of quite a number of lovely birds. Several species of water birds were roosting in the trees together.
I was most excited to see the roseate spoonbills, which unlike Spanish moss, are very aptly named; like flamingos, their pink coloration is derived from pigments in their diet. Spoonbills were almost hunted to extinction for their feathers, but have also recovered well thanks to conservation efforts.
There were also several yellow-crowned night herons (Nyctanassa violacea), my first time seeing them in the U.S.
And one tricolored heron (Egretta tricolor).
We also saw a great blue heron (Ardea herodias), a much more common bird in the U.S., but still a favorite. I hadn't realized until writing this today how many different genera there are of
egrets and herons (family Ardeidae). Herons and egrets are not
biologically distinct, but apparently are named differently only on the basis of their plumage.
This anhinga (Anhinga anhinga... that one's easy) was sunning itself in its typical posture. Anhingas dive to catch fish, but unlike ducks, they don't have oily, waterproof feathers, so they need to dry out!
And I'll leave you with a few more roseate spoonbills. Aren't they gorgeous? And also kinda funny looking?
I'm thankful for my bookclub friends, who managed to go from idea to blocking off the weekend in approximately five minutes. We all had a great time and agreed we'd be happy to go back. (Next year?) Not pictured: reading time, book discussions, several delicious meals with lots of seafood, and laughter-filled word games.
Last month, I went camping, kayaking, and hiking in Congaree National Park. Located about half an hour southeast of Columbia, SC, It's one of the least visited national parks in the contiguous United States, but I highly recommend a visit! Much of the park is an old-growth bottomland forest, with some truly massive trees, including baldycypress (Taxodium distichum) and water tupelo (Nyssa aquatica). The forest floods periodically, such that instead of paddling down the creek (which I did), you can actually paddle through the forest itself. I'd love to go back and experience the forest during a flood.
My first afternoon, I walked the Boardwalk trail loop, which is elevated above the forest floor.
At the Weston Lake Overlook, I saw several yellow-bellied sliders (Trachemys scripta scripta) sunning themselves.
I camped at a lovely site in the Longleaf Campground, and enjoyed my hammock, but was also very thankful for the bug net, given the mosquitoes. As the sun began to set, fireflies emerged, and just sitting back and watching them was quite magical. Congaree National Park is home to one of only three species of synchronous fireflies in North America (Photuris frontalis); the synchronous displays are seen earlier in the season (another reason to return to Congaree in the future), but I still enjoyed the abundance of other fireflies, especially given that they are in decline due to pesticide use (including mosquito repellent), light pollution, and habitat destruction (one of many reasons to "leave the leaves" and practice other ecologically friendlier gardening methods).
The next morning, I went kayaking with a guided tour. It was a lovely way to see the park, enjoy the calmness of the creek, and see some wildlife.
Our first sighting was this beautiful barred owl (Strix varia), and we saw another later on the trip. (This is just my phone camera, no telephoto!)
We also saw a couple banded watersnakes (Nerodia fasciata; not pictured) and several impressively large brown watersnakes (Nerodia fasciata). Neither species is venemous, and all were simply enjoying the sun.
I wouldn't have known to look for them, but our guide also pointed out several fishing spiders (I think Dolomedes vittatus). They are very well camouflaged on the trees lining the creek, where they hang out when they aren't on the surface of the water, hunting for aquatic insects and fish.
After the tour, I went back to the campground and ate lunch, and then did a long hike starting from the campground and chaining together the Longleaf Trail, Bluff Trail, Firefly Trial, Sims Trail, Weston Lake Trail, and a few bits of the boardwalk again. Congaree is also home to an upland pine forest that is actively managed with prescribed burns.
Longleaf trail
Several sections were still smoldering!
Both forests had lots of woodpeckers, but the pine forest had so many red-headed woodpeckers (Melanerpes erythrocephalus), which was a new species for me.
Pileated woodpecker (Dryocopus pileatus)
Red-bellied woodpecker (Melanerpes carolinus)
In other ways, though, the two different forest types were drastically different—both visually and in terms of the species seen—which was fun!
The lowland forest is home—in the summer—to prothonotary warblers (Protonotaria citrea). These tiny little birds are named for their bright yellow plumage, which apparently resembles the yellow robes that used to be worn by papal clerks called prothonotaries.
Although the mosquito level was officially only "moderate", I had to keep moving once I was in the lowland forest, otherwise I was surrounded almost instantaneously.
The highlight of the hike was this adorable raccoon (Procyon lotor). Interestingly the word raccoon comes from the Powhatan language, of the Algonquin language family, and is thought to mean "one who rubs, scrubs and scratches with its hands".
I've seen urban and suburban raccoons plenty, but this
was my first time seeing one in a non-human dominated landscape. And
even more excitingly, this raccoon was either fishing or foraging for
invertebrates in the mud.
This family of black vultures (Coragyps atratus) was hanging out in a tree, the one at the bottom left appears to be mid-molt.
I had been told that there were two alligators (Alligator mississippiensis) in Weston Lake, and as I rounded the northeastern corner of the lake, I saw first one and then the other. This was the larger one, well over 10 feet long.
And now for some miscellaneous highlights and sightings (see iNat for more). There were lots of skinks (Plestiodon) rustling in the leaf litter...
There were many, many butterflies and dragonflies zipping about the park.
I saw plenty of eastern gray squirrels (Sciurus carolinensis)...
But sadly only got a brief glimpse of a southern fox squirrel (Sciurus niger niger), while I was driving, so there's no photo to show. Just the fun signs on the road into the park.
On my way out of the park, I stopped at the entrance sign, and I saw a flash of blue. It was an indigo bunting (Passerina cyanea; well named in both English and Latin).
I went to Congaree National Park to check it off my list while I still live in the southeast, but I may well go back sometime soon!
